Grande, Adela, Torre, Fitz Roy   (4,0 based on 21 ratings)    viewed: 276x
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Labels

1 Cerro Grande, 2751
2 Filo Este
3 Punta Paganella
4 Paso Doblado
5 Cerro Ñato, 2797
6 Col Trento
7 Meeting Bonatti-Maestri
8 Cerro Adela Sur, 2840
9 Cerro Adela Central, 2938
10 Cerro Adela Norte, 2825
11 Col de la Esperanza
12 Cerro Torre, 3102
13 Cerro Standhardt, 2730
14 Domo Blanco, 2507
15 Aguja Bifida, 2394
16 Mocho, 1953
17 Cerro Piergiorgio, 2719
18 Cerro Pollone, 2579
19 Aguja Stefan
20 Aguja Pollone, 2260
21 Filo del Hombre Sentado
22 'Fitz Roy of the Poor', 1770
23 Aguja Desmochada, 2550
24 Aguja de la Silla, 2900
25 Puerta Blanca
26 Punta Mercedes Sosa
27 Silla de los Americanos
28 Fitz Roy, 3405
29 Aguja Poincenot, 3004
30 Aguja Saint-Exupery, 2558
31 Aguja de l'S

Details

Location: Paso Solo-Grande (1749 m)      by: Pedrotti Alberto
Area: Argentina      Date: 16-02-2014
In the ever-changing lighting conditions, I think that this was the best moment for the elegant snow ridge of Cerro Grande and for the seracs on the flank of Cordón Adela.

I think that it is instructive to consider in conjunction the present work, N.13317 and N.12339 in order to "study" the Grande-to-Torre section from different distances.

On February 7, 1958, Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri at 10.50 stand for the first time on top of the Cordón Adela, that is, on the central summit. Three days before they had performed the first ascension of Cerro Mariano Moreno, 3462 m, 20 km away in the middle of the Hielo Sur. (Six months later, on August 6, they would perform the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV)
In view of the early hour, the decide to go on to the other summits, heading first to the Adela Sur. On the descent to the following saddle, the one in direction Cerro Ñato, they spot at the col two men, namely, Cesare Maestri and Luciano Eccher who were attempting in turn a first ascent of the Adela Sur.
This meeting by chance of two teams unaware of each other has a high value in mountaineering history. Bonatti from Monza is the champion of the so-called Western-Alps mountaineering style, while Maestri from Trento, the "Ragno delle Dolomiti", is the champion of the Eastern-Alps style.
The next year Maestri will claim an ascent of Cerro Torre, maybe the most disputed issue in mountaineering history, but the first recognized ascent of the Torre will be performed not by the Ragno delle Dolomiti in 1959, but by the Ragni di Lecco, led by Casimiro Ferrari, in 1974.
Look at the dates of the Torre and compare with those of K2. Here, in 1939 Fritz Wiessner, the American born in Dresden, and Pasang Dawa Lama, reach 8380 m on the easy summit snow slopes of K2. They are very close to an achievement that would have changed the whole Himalayan history. True, it is 6 pm, but the full moon will rise and the weather is so good that Wiessner, on the rocks below, could lead the climb without gloves, "practising all the skills that he had developed during his youth in the Elbsandstein". But Pasang says "no, sahib" because there are evil spirits on the summits at night.
Also the K2, like the Torre, will have to wait 15 years, until 1954, with two Italians (Eastern-Alps representatives, this time) on the top and two others, including the 24-year-old Bonatti, shivering the whole night down at 8100 m.
One difference between K2 and Torre is perhaps that, while the former was skied down last Sunday, the latter will probably never be skied down!!
Before the meeting on the Adela ridge (presumably near the spot that I marked, although from the photo shot by Mauri it is difficult to infer the exact location), Maestri had realized the first ascent of Cerro Grande, together with Marino Stenico and Catullo Detassis (brother of Bruno, the "big old man" of the Brenta Dolomites). The south summit of Cerro Grande, however, will be named Cerro Luca after Mauri's at the time newborn son - namely, that was the last summit touched by Bonatti and Mauri in the epic traversal of that day.
Cerro El Ñato had been climbed already in February 1937 by a party of three, including Ettore Castiglioni. "Count Aldo Bonacossa, the expedition's sponsor and organizer, accompanied the team to the Paso Doblado" (Garibotti, Patagonia Vertical, pag. 80).

9 HF, Canon G1X, 90 mm equiv, f/6.3, 1/1250 sec.
Larger: http://bit.ly/2LZmeCk

Comments

Perfect ... !!!!!

Cheers, Hans-Jörg
2018/07/26 07:04, Hans-Jörg Bäuerle
Besides Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, one almost forgets that Cerro Grande is also one of the most beautiful mountains!
2018/07/26 08:46, Jens Vischer
"Tutti servono da principio il vino buono e, quando sono un po' brilli, quello meno buono; tu invece hai conservato fino ad ora il vino buono" 
Queste nozze di Cana con la Patagonia non finiscono più!
Ciao, Alvise
2018/07/26 09:07, Alvise Bonaldo
Un grande commento, Alvise !!!

Ciao, Hans-Jörg
2018/07/26 09:37, Hans-Jörg Bäuerle
Il vino buono sta ancora lí, perché io tutta quella buona roba l'ho solo guardata da lontano!
Saluti,
Alberto.
2018/07/26 09:51, Pedrotti Alberto
Absolut beeindruckend. Großartig ausgearbeitet!
2018/07/26 15:29, Dieter Leimkötter
As spectacular as mountains can possibly be!
2018/07/26 23:35, Johannes Ha
Absolutely spectacular. Cheers, Martin

PS1: Even better than the completely blue sky with some cloud. But if every person has some fixed contingent of good weather, you will have used it all up in Patagonia within very few days and will spend the rest of your life in the rain.

PS2: I am very sure that you did not ski down from this viewpoint after taking the pictures. I amquite sure you cycled down ;-)
2018/07/27 20:56, Martin Kraus
An outstanding pano ! 
And a great story about which I have read in many books.
(about "our" Fritz Wiessner especially...)
2018/07/28 09:41, Steffen Minack
Die ausführlich geschilderte Historie zu diesem perfekten Panorama alleine verdient es schon, dass so ein Werk deutlich höher bewertet wird - das meine ich, Alberto !!!

Nur die Community kann erklären, warum viele sich einer Bewertung entziehen, oder sie erkennen die Bedeutung nicht ... !?!

Danke für Deine Mühe - großartig !!!

Herzlichst
Hans-Jörg
2018/08/05 00:15, Hans-Jörg Bäuerle
As always, fantastic! BR Jan.
2018/08/06 22:43, Jan Lindgaard Rasmussen
Echt genial - Well done

LG Hans
2018/08/07 10:16, Johann Ilmberger

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Pedrotti Alberto

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